It is twenty years since the official launch of the Biella Master delle Fibre Nobili - Aziende come Botteghe d'Arte and a cause for celebration at the Foundation. I shall always carry with me fond memories of the Rotary evening in 1986 when I first voiced my idea. It was favourably received by a group of entrepreneur friends at a meeting of the Biellese Industrial Association and became a concrete reality in 1989 when the first edition of the post-graduate courses began.

Having experienced every stage of this wonderful story, a kind of modern patronage, it is with great affection that I would like to thank all those who have contributed, helped us and worked with us over the years in order to keep the flame of that idea burning. Twenty years later we are still able to hand on to the new generations that knowledge of textiles, clothing and distribution which is inherent in the quality of 'Made in Italy' manufacturing.

Yours sincerely,

Luciano Barbera

Chairman

Biella Master of Noble Fibres

Foundation Industries as workshops

Biella Master: twenty years of excellence
The Biella Master is twenty years old, an occasion which was celebrated at the Annual General Meeting held on 26th April at the Circolo Sociale. Chairman Luciano Barbera, after approving the Foundation's healthy balance in spite of a crisis that has negatively affected all sectors, outlined the developments of the enterprise since the idea was born in the company of friends one evening at the Rotary.

"I admire Luciano Barbera because he is a concrete idealist who defends the culture of wool and fights for Made in Italy", said the Mayor of Biella, Dino Gentile, special guest of the evening, after announcing that the Town Council of the "Capital of noble fibres, world centre of training in excellence" is delighted to join the sponsors of the enterprise.

After their diplomas had been awarded to the Master graduates of the XLX edition (Pier Paolo Ferrucci, Giorgia Griffa, Sara Maruzzo, Sofia Mercandino and Federico Serra), who finished the course at the end of December and who have nearly all found important positions in prestigious firms, a souvenir scroll was given to the companies and organisations who have supported the Biella Master since the beginning.

Awards were given to: Belvest Spa, Carlo Barbera &C Spa, Filatura di Pollone Srl, Forall Confezioni Spa, Lanificio Botto Giuseppe e Figli Spa, Lanificio F.lli Cerruti Spa, Loro Piana Spa, Lanificio Puro Tessuto Spa, Successori Reda Spa,Tintoria e Finissaggio Tonella Srl, Trabaldo Togna Spa, Vitale Barberis Canonico Spa, Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia Spa, Lanificio F.Hi Tallia Delfino Spa, Guabello Spa, Saima Avandero Spa,Unione Industriale Biellese , Banca Sella, Rotary Club Biella, Città Studi, Fondazione Cassa di Risparmio di Biella, Gruppo Ermenegildo Zegna and Mr. Giuseppe Alvigini.

Mario Bona, long-standing tutor, competent and tireless teacher, was also awarded a scroll, an announcement which was greeted with thunderous applause.

John Smedley: new sponsor of Biella Master

The English company will provide in-company training for the Master students of the XX edition

John Smedley, an English company founded in 1784 in Matlock, Derbyshire, and known all over the world as one of the leading producers of fine knitwear, has recently joined the sponsors of the Master. Managing Director Andrew Caughey was pleased to announce his support to Alfredo Botto Poala, chairman of Zegna Baruffa and Councillor of the Biella Master and to his partners Maurizio Dotto and Alberto Rossi.

Andrew Caughey had already worked with Luciano Barbera and Mario Bona and been instrumental in encouraging Merino New Zealand to join the supporters of the enterprise. The English company will soon provide the graduates of the XX edition of the Biella Master with in-company training that will lead them through all the stages of manufacture.

360° training in classroom and field

After the summer break the Master students will start their internships abroad

The four scholarship students who are attending the XX edition of the Biella Master are enthusiastic about their experience so far and are looking forward to their internships abroad after the summer break when they will learn about the entire cycle of textile/clothing/distribution, discover where noble fibres are selected and how the finished garments are sold all over the world. The four students, who all come from different backgrounds, have been particularly interested in the spinning, weaving, finishing and tailoring processes. For Matteo Martello the practical part of the course continues and completes a largely theoretical university training which ended with a short internship, while Francesca Soster had already spent a year training in a company for her thesis, Maria Clara Poma had a better understanding of the early stages of production and the philosophical/theoretical aspects and Ugo Orsini comments: "There are always different approaches to look at depending on the different typologies of company".

On completing their internships in finishing they all agreed that it was fascinating to be able to study the whole production line and added: "We are convinced that the best is yet to come!"

"I am very satisfied with the course so far and curious about what lies ahead," says Francesca Soster while Maria Clara Poma, describes herself as "super-enthusiastic".

'A unique opportunity": this is how the four Master students describe their par-ticipation in the important fairs of the sector, from Milano Unica to Pitti, which they also saw from 'behind the scenes'. As the course progresses their special interests and preferences are gradually becoming clearer and range from the creative to the commercial side as well as the more technological aspects. They all agree that the theoretical and field training is 360° such as only the Biella Master can provide.

Testimony of Andrew Caughey / Managing Director of John Smedley

"'New generation of innovators and thinkers'"

Andrew Caughey, Managing Director of John Smedley, has recently joined the sponsors of the Biella Master in an official capacity but has a long acquaint-anceship with the institution which has been well-known abroad for many years now.

You recently joined the sponsors of the Master. How did you come to know Biella Master?

"John Smedley Ltd has recently joined the sponsors of Biella Master. Personally I have had a long association with the students of the Biella Master through my previous work with The New Zealand Merino Company Ltd who hosted the students each year on merino sheep stations in the mountains of the South Island of New Zealand. Now I am working at John Smedley Ltd I would like to provide the students with the same sort of experience and appreciation of quality and attention to detail through an association with the John Smedley fine gauge knitting mill in Derbyshire".

Do you think that a training course such as this one is of use to the world of textile/clothing?

"The Biella Master program is unique and is one that is essential to support in capturing the interest of a new generation of innovators and thinkers into our textile industry. There is an urgent need for European textile and clothing manufacturers to specialise and differentiate themselves in the market place to compete in an everchanging global market. The Biella Master is one way of preparing our new leaders to take on the significant challenges within our industry."

Do you think that there is still a future for quality textile/clothing?

'Europe has a heritage and history that is rich in the use of natural fibres, luxurious fabrics and the creation of the finest fashions. These desirable points of difference are not available to new and emerging brands as it takes time to build up this specialist expertise. We must continue to focus our companies on quality and innovation but supported by marketing that helps to build unique brands that tell the stories of our specialities and our history including our family heritage.

The areas of marketing and market responsiveness are offering significant opportunities for the Biella Master graduates. John Smedley Ltd has joined the distinguished companies within the Biella Master as we believe in strengthening the industry skills through collaboration between the companies with specialist expertise. We look forward to supporting the students and the initiatives of the Biella Master."

The testimony of Federico Coda /Commercial Manager of Emilcotoni of Piacenza

"Complete Training in contact with companies"

Federico Coda, a graduate of the Master, is now Commercial Manager of Emilcotoni of Piacenza which produces cotton yarns and where he is responsible for customer relations and foreign sales.

Do you think that your Biella Master training was a determining factor when you were looking for a job?

"Certainly, and for two reasons: having direct contact with companies during the training periods means that they get to know you and you get involved with their world. This doesn't mean recommendations (selection for the Master is tough and anyone who obtains the diploma deserves it) but you are in the advantageous position of being able to avoid all the waiting lists that are part and parcel of looking for your first job."

What are your memories today of the Master course? Would you change anything?

"I think it provides all-round training and there's nothing I would change. Eliminating certain internships to make room for others would deprive the students of the chance to acquire skills which make up the cultural baggage that is indispensable for every candidate.Until you finish the Master you don't know exactly what you are going to do; looking back, I could have spent longer in a knitwear factory instead of in garment make-up perhaps, but supposing I had! had the opportunity to follow the commercial I side in a company of finished products I don't I think I would have beneñted particularly.

What do you consider the essentials of your training?

"Undoubtedly learning respect for quality, for customer service and being constantly open-minded towards a market which is no longer local or nationá but worldwide. Learning how to take Italian know-how on all levels everywhere". How is the Biella Master view ed by the companies you have worked with? "Those firms which are familiar with the Biella Master and have employed its graduates have a very positive opinion of its excellent quality As well as frequently employing new graduates they remain in close contact with those of previous edtions, which goes to show that a Master graduate will always be an interesting candidate, even if he already has a job. I am convinced that companies should not only train the students but promote the Master constantly because it is fundamental for Master students to be immediately employed in a sector where limited knowledge of the field is sometimes all too evident.

XX Edition: Four Participants

University professor Leonardo Ceriani is the new teacher of garment make-up

Four young graduates are currently taking part in the XX edition of the Master.
Three of them graduated from Textile Engineering faculties: Matteo Martello, 25, from Verona; Ugo Orsini, 24, from Ascoli Piceno; Francesca Soster, 24, from Villa del Bosco (Biella). The fourth scholarship student, Maria Clara Poma, 24, comes from Erice (Tra¬pani) and is a graduate in Fashion Design from the University of Florence.

A new member has joined the teaching staff: Professor Leonardo Ceriani, author of numerous publications and a well-known university lecturer, will be the new teacher of garment make-up.

Biella Master news

Important news from the Biella Master Foundation. Two new members have brought their skills to the Scientific Committee which met on December 9th under the chairmanship of Franco Rigola. They are Professor Giorgio Rovero who represents the Polytechnic of Turin and Mr. Pino Alvigini with his expertise in the socio-cultural-artistic field.

Two new Councillors have joined the Management of the Biella Master Foundation: Pier Francesco Corcione, who represents the Biellese Industrial Union and replaces Arnaldo Cartotto, and Fabio Foschi on behalf of the Lanificio Piacenza.